Sunday, July 1, 2007

Should You Ignore Puppy's Cry When You Get Them Home For The First Night?


SitStayFetch Consultation:

Hi Daniel,

Last year, I had to put my 13 year old pet to sleep. I am now contemplating getting a new puppy and a different breed, which I want to train. It has been so long since I have had a puppy and I have lost a bit of touch and I have a couple of questions. When you get them home for the first night and put them in their new bed, should you ignore their crying if so for how long. I don't want to traumatize the little thing. Also, should obedience training start straight away and for how long each time?

Finally he will be coming to work with me, but naturally he won't sit still in his bed what should I do to get him use to the office environment and how should I keep him confined without being cruel?

Regards,

Marie.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SitStayFetch Reply:

Hi Marie,

Thank you for your email.

I highly recommend that you get a crate for your new puppy. This will be excellent for all the training you have to do, but in particular if you are going to take him to work with you. I WOULD not have a new puppy without a crate, trust me you will feel the same once you bring your puppy home.


It pays to start as you mean to go on, so if you want to sleep through the whole night, as you usually would, then so should the puppy. If he whines and you wait and wait and wait, then go and see to the puppy, he will then have learnt, how long he has to whine in order to get what he wants, some company! Which is the worst thing you can do!

Ignore him totally, he will be upset and noisy to begin with, but no harm can come to him (especially if he is in a crate). He will learn after a couple of days that there is no point whining, because no one will hear so just have to wait until the morning and that's what you want!

It is a good idea to not give him any water at night, so that he doesn't drink and therefore urinate so much (unless he has diarrhea, in which case he will require the fluids so as to not dehydrate. Sometimes puppies have diarrhea when you first take them home because of the stress, as long as there is no blood in it this is quite normal).

You will probably find that the puppy will be quite happy at work with you, because you are there. If you don't want to get a crate then set up a bed and a toilet area, somewhere where you can tie him up. Always supervise a puppy that is tied up, as there is a potential strangle risk if you leave it to its own devices.

While you are toilet training, take the puppy out every hour on the hour so that he is not given the chance to ever go inside (unless there is no outside option for you). If he does have an accident inside, soak it up or pick it up with some newspaper and take it outside. Most puppies will not toilet in there crate unless they really have to because they do not like going near where they like to sleep.

SitStayFetch.net

Kind regards,

Daniel Stevens

Click here to learn the truth about Dog Food Secrets.

Sunday, June 24, 2007

You may not believe this but...

You should NEVER use the recall word ("COME", or whatever word you choose) to call your dog to discipline him, correct him, tell him what a bad dog he is, or for any negative reason. Bad deeds MUST be caught IN THE ACT in order to correct. If you still need your dog by you for a negative reason, give him a firm SIT command and go get him.

For example:
Imagine this, you see your dog "Major" outside digging up your newly planted daisies. You first quietly say "Major, Come here". Major, doesn’t respond. You then yell "MAJOR - COME HERE!". Major still doesn’t come, so you go over and grab him by the collar and yell "I told you to Come Here!" and give him a smack.

Major being a smart dog, makes a mental note "Come Here" means "You’re in trouble and about to get punished".

Next time when he is outside, and you want him to come inside for dinner you go out and say to him "Come here", he responds by running away. "Dumb dog" you think and go and grab him and drag him inside so he’ll eat his food. Then you say sternly "How come you don’t ever COME when I call you?!" Major makes another mental note (Hmmm: seems to me my memory of "COME HERE" is still accurate – don’t want to respond to that – after all, "COME HERE" means I am in BIG TROUBLE!)

Remember, dogs know ONLY "dog language" when they come to live with us. WE must teach them our language. In the above examples, Major did not learn OUR translation for the word "COME". He learned "COME" meant "angry owner – I’m in trouble now. Better scram out of here!" We want Major to learn that "COME" means "Get your buns to me in the fastest way possible – NO EXCEPTIONS!"Major needs to understand that COME means GOOD stuff – ALWAYS!


SitStayFetch.net

Kind regards,

Daniel Stevens

Click here to learn the truth about Dog Food Secrets.

Tuesday, June 12, 2007

Carol's Dog Goes Crazy When She Open Any Drawer That Makes Noise


SitStayFetch: Consultation

Hi Daniel,

We have a challenge for you; I hope you can help us.

We have a one year old border collie named Zippy. She is very active and we do a lot of play and exercise with her. Our problem is that every time we are in the kitchen opening the silverware drawer or any drawer that makes noises, she goes crazy. She runs around in circles, bolts to our living room and then makes more circles! If we do any kind of paperwork, tearing paper or tearing out checks she does the same thing. When she does this we can't get her attention at all, she just goes berserk! She is such a good dog, she knows all kinds of tricks and is good on commands except for this one problem.

I hope you can help us on this.

Please answer.

Carol

---------------------------------------------------------------
SitStayFetch Reply:

Hi Carol,

Thank you for your email.

First of all, I recommend that you desensitize Zippy to the things which make her go berserk.

You can do this by having her in the kitchen with you (unleashed) and spending a minimum of 10 minutes a day opening the drawer and closing it. Do this quietly to begin with, but as the days go by do it progressively louder, until you are really clattering that cutlery!


You will have to completely ignore her reaction and act as if she is not there, act calm, because if you give her any attention you will probably just exaggerate her excitement and ruin the objective of the exercise.

After you have done the silverware trick as above, spend 10 minutes ripping paper in a casual and neutral manner. Do not even look at her if/when she reacts to the paper tearing. In fact, initially, it might pay to continue the paper ripping until she calms down if it is possible. Then make sure you reward her for any positive behavior, to reinforce what you want from her.

In psychology they refer to this treatment as “Flooding”. It is the same concept as making a person face their fears, or neutralizing an exciting task by having to do it all the time. Consistency is the key with this training.

After a while you can move on and have someone make her sit on a short lead while you continue the desensitizing process using the cutlery and paper ripping as described previously. Again reward her for any positive change in behavior, she may not change her behavior instantly, but if there is a slight change, stop what you are doing and reward her, even if it is just a “Good Dog!”

If it is possible, make a tape recording of the noises which she reacts to. Play them to her quietly and as often as possible when you know she can not hurt herself. If she is really noisy, it might be a good idea to inform and warn your neighbors about what you are doing.

That should do the trick, just keep persevering and you'll get there!

Best of luck,

SitStayFetch.net

Daniel Stevens

---------------------------------------------------------------
Carol's Reply:

Hello Daniel,

Thank you so much for the suggestion. We have started doing what you suggested and it does seem like it is going to work. Like you said, be consistent. I will let you know later on how we are doing.

Again, thank you.

Carol

Tuesday, June 5, 2007

Larry's Dog Loves To Bury Food


SitStayFetch: Consultation

Hi Daniel,

I have a four year old labrador who loves to bury food. Every time I give him a biscuit he runs out into the yard, digs a hole in the corner of the garden and buries it. He never seems to go back for the buried biscuits but comes back to me and cries for more. My wife and I have uncovered literally hundreds of decaying biscuits when we dig the garden. Its such a terrible waste as well as being a little yucky. We are almost at our wits end. How do we stop this behavior and what leads him to do it anyway?

Yours,

Larry.
-------------------------------------------------------------
SitStayFetch Reply:

Dear Larry,

Burying food is not that unusual at all. In fact, it is in your dog's nature to bury items such as bones for later consumption. Its been long recognized as a form of hoarding or food storage that is inherited from the wolves. Because your dog has a readily available supply of food from you, there is no need to dig up the food stored in reserve. And so it rots.


Other than restricting the amount of biscuits that you are feeding him, the easiest solution to your problem is to restrict access to the yard until after he has eaten the biscuit. Alternatively you could try burying chicken wire under the surface of the dirt so your dog can't dig. Take a look at my book SitStayFetch and go to the section entitled Dog 202: Common Dog Problems Solved.

I hope this helps!

SitStayFetch.net

Kind regards,

Daniel Stevens and the SitStayFetch Team

Click here to learn the truth about Dog Food Secrets.

Friday, June 1, 2007

Kirsty's Dog Used To Have "A Nervous Disposition And A Habit Of Going Bonkers Through Fear By Barking, Growling And Trying To Nip/Bite"

"The SitStayFetch books have been a tremendous help to me in gaining more control over my two dogs Neo & Molly especially as they were rather defiant at times.

Both dogs are very loving, fun and loyal but I've had to get a dog behaviorist out in the past as Molly's a rescue dog, has a nervous disposition and a habit of going bonkers through fear by barking, growling and trying to nip/bite. I think she was abused before I got her as she is extremely scared of children and doesn't particularly like strangers and other dogs. She loves the family and those she knows but it was/is really worrying so the fear biting section has been great for tips on dealing with that.

They know now who's the alpha and don't try nearly as much nonsense as they used to. Obviously I'm not expecting them to change overnight, I realize I have to be rigorous in the re-training but so far they're coming along great!

I really wish I'd heard/got the SitStayFetch books years ago, in my opinion no dog owner should be without a copy. They're brilliant, very easy to understand/follow and the results are amazing! Please find attached my photo of myself and the dogs."
-- Kirsty Halleran (UK)


SitStayFetch.net

Kind regards,

Daniel Stevens and the SitStayFetch Team

Click here to learn the truth about Dog Food Secrets.

Tuesday, May 29, 2007

Antonino Was Able To Establish Himself As The Alpha Dog So He Could Curb His Dog's Barking And Aggression

"Bello is the first dog I have had, so there was much I didn't know about dogs. Bello is a very smart and friendly dog, but as he started growing up (he is 18 months old now), he developed this quite idiosyncratic characteristic of taking matters into his own paws, so to speak. More specifically, he barks at and tries to scare other male dogs or some strangers he considers dangerous, although he's told not to.

On one such occasion, I almost lost hold of the leash, and he seemed to be close to attacking a male poodle. That's when I decided to look for help. I searched the web for books about dogs, and Sitstayfetch caught my eye. I'm very happy I purchased and read it. I realized that the problem lay with me. I knew nothing about the importance of conveying to him that I was the alpha dog.

For example, I was completely unaware that I had to go through doorways first; instead, I always let him go first. This is but one of the useful tips I got from Sitstayfetch, and they have all helped me greatly in the past two months to establish a better and healthier relationship with Bello. I only wish I had gotten the book when Bello came to live with me 16 months ago."
-- Antonino Gulli


SitStayFetch.net

Kind regards,

Daniel Stevens and the SitStayFetch Team

Click here to learn the truth about Dog Food Secrets

Thursday, May 24, 2007

Rita Successfully Solved Her Dog's Problems From Being Nervous And Agressive Towards Other Dogs

"Hello Daniel, I adopted a Springer spaniel from ESRA (English Springer Spaniel Rescue) in January of this year. JD (which stands for Just Dog) had a few issues but was mostly a "good boy" I was told. We brought him home only to find out he needed a lot of attention and discipline.

JD was very nervous. He had been a stray when found, and he lived in his foster home for several months. I was told that JD did not like his new 'foster dad', especially when he wore white t-shirts or when he took off his belt. He also was aggressive toward other dogs, and sometimes other men. However, he was fine with kids, his foster mom and me. I must mention that he is an extremely handsome guy (as you can see from his picture!).

My boyfriend was nervous and wanted me to send JD back to his foster home. Of course, being a Springer lover, I fell in love with JD as soon as I saw him, so I did not want to give up so fast. Someone had told me about your book, SitStayFetch so I decided to look for it online. When I realize I could download it, I opted for this. I began reading and finding good ideas on what I could do immediately to try to correct some of JD's bad behaviors. One thing I did immediately was to stop allowing JD to sleep next to my bed at night. He thought he was to be the leader of the pack and would sometimes climb up in the bed with me.

I had to show him that he was not, so I put up a nice-sized crate for him in the dining room and he started sleeping in there. He actually liked going in his crate, it gave him a sense of security that he sorely needed.

Another thing I did with JD was to begin walking him with a gentle leader several times a day. I trained him to walk by my side, to sit and to walk when I began walking. He needed a firm and consistent mom and I guess I was the one! We still take daily walks and I make him work for every treat he gets from me or the kids. He has become a wonderful pet over the past 7 months but it has not been easy.

JD is now a trusted family member, a wonderful watch dog, and a playful happy guy. He has made a complete 180, and I owe it to your expertise and to the help of a trainer I hired in March. She works on many of the same principles that you/your book does, mainly using strong and persistent techniques to break bad habits. Showing the dog that he is not the boss, is key.

Thank you for your e-newsletters, too. I really enjoy these. Sometimes the problems are similar to mine and JD's, sometimes not. Your answers are always clear and intelligent. I believe you are helping many people and their dogs to become compatible friends-the way it should be!"
-- Rita Randolfi (Vero Beach, Florida)


SitStayFetch.net

Kind regards,

Daniel Stevens and the SitStayFetch Team

Click here to learn the truth about Dog Food Secrets.